Pahalgam

Pahalgam sits where the Lidder river comes down out of the Kolahoi glacier, about 90 km from Srinagar. It is the greenest place in the valley and the easiest to slow down in — a day here is mostly walking beside water under deodar pine.

The two side valleys are the reason to stay overnight rather than pass through. Betaab is the closer and busier one; Aru, another 12 km up, is quieter and the starting point for multi-day treks toward Kolahoi and Tarsar Marsar. Local cabs run to both from the main taxi stand, since private vehicles are not allowed on the last stretch.